A seven-day trip to Jordan costs between JD 50–150 per day depending on accommodation choices, and the single biggest planning decision is whether to buy the Jordan Pass—it pays for itself if you stay longer than three nights and visit Petra. Most Western travellers arrive expecting bureaucratic friction and find instead a small, stable country where the main sites are connected by a single highway, English is spoken widely, and a rental car costs JD 25–40 per day. The real shock is that Jordan remains one of the easiest and cheapest Middle Eastern countries to navigate independently, yet it absorbs far fewer tourists than Egypt or Lebanon.
The Jordan Pass: Buy It or Not?
The Jordan Pass is not a marketing exercise—it's a practical economics question. The pass costs JD 70 (approximately €90) and includes the visa fee plus entry to Petra for one day, plus access to Jerash, Wadi Rum visitor centre, Kerak Castle, and around 40 other archaeological sites. Without the pass, a visa costs JD 40 and Petra entry costs JD 50 for one day or JD 55 for two days. The math is direct: if you stay three or more nights, the pass saves money and eliminates visa-on-arrival queues. Purchase it online at jordanpass.jo at least one week before arrival—it activates at your port of entry (usually Queen Alia International Airport, 30km south of Amman).
The pass is worthless if you spend three days in Amman and leave. It's essential if you plan any combination of Jerash, Petra, and Wadi Rum. Activating it at the airport takes five minutes at the immigration desk.
Getting to Jordan and Into the Country
Queen Alia International Airport, 30km south of Amman, handles most international arrivals. From Europe, flights typically take four to five hours. Turkish Airlines and Royal Jordanian offer direct connections from major European hubs; budget carriers like Ryanair connect via secondary Middle Eastern cities. A taxi from the airport to central Amman costs JD 20–25; ask the driver for the meter rate before departing.
Most Western passports (UK, EU, US, Canadian, Australian) receive a visa on arrival for JD 40, valid for one month. The line usually moves in under 30 minutes, but arrive with patience and in daylight—the airport is open 24 hours, but evening arrivals face longer queues. If you have purchased the Jordan Pass, skip the visa queue entirely and go directly to immigration, where the pass covers your entry.
Seven Days on the Road: The Actual Itinerary
Day 1: Arrive Amman, settle in.
Amman is not a fortress city or a desert outpost—it is a sprawling, sometimes chaotic Middle Eastern capital with good restaurants, functioning infrastructure, and no need for a multi-day investment. Collect your rental car at the airport (pre-book through Budget, Hertz, or Europcar; JD 25–40/day for a compact, insurance included). Drive to the Jabal Amman neighbourhood (northwest of downtown), where Rainbow Street and the surrounding area contain most hotels and restaurants worth the time. Check into a mid-range place like Boutique Hotel or similar (JD 50–80/night) and walk the street in the late afternoon.
Eat dinner at Hashem Restaurant in downtown Amman, a five-minute drive south. Hashem has no sign, no pretence, and the best hummus and falafel in the city for JD 2–3 per person. Cash only. Expect standing-room-only crowds at 7pm. The hummus is soupy, the falafel is still warm, and the pita bread is delivered fresh every few minutes. This is where locals eat, not tourists.
Day 2: Jerash and Roman Amman.
Drive north to Jerash (48km, one hour via the highway). Jerash is the second-largest Roman city outside Italy, but most guidebooks overstate the time required. Two to three hours is sufficient to walk the main colonnade, the oval forum, and the North Theatre. The site is laid out as a straightforward rectangle; you cannot get lost. Entrance is JD 8 if you do not have the Jordan Pass.
Return to Amman for late afternoon. Visit the Roman Theatre in downtown Amman (near Hashem) and the Citadel overlooking the city. Both are under-visited relative to their quality. The Roman Theatre still hosts concerts; check the schedule. Total cost for both: JD 3.
Day 3: Drive south to Petra via the King's Highway.
The route from Amman to Petra via the King's Highway takes 3.5 to four hours and is one of the better drives in the Middle East. The highway climbs through villages, olive groves, and gradually changes landscape. Stop in Madaba (30km south of Amman) to see the Byzantine mosaic map inside St. George's Church—the map depicts the Holy Land in ceramic tiles and dates to the sixth century. Entrance is JD 2. Spend 30 minutes.
Continue south and turn east toward Mount Nebo (800m elevation). The viewpoint overlooks the Dead Sea and the Jordan River Valley. On a clear day, visibility reaches the West Bank. Entrance is JD 2. Spend 20 minutes. The site is not crowded.
Descend toward Wadi Musa, the village adjacent to Petra. Arrive by 3pm. Check into a hotel near the Petra visitor centre (JD 40–70/night for mid-range) and walk into the Siq at sunset. The Siq is the canyon approach to the Treasury; sunset light turns the rock orange-red and reveals why Petra deserves the reputation. Entry is free in the late afternoon if you already hold a Jordan Pass or multi-day ticket. Bring a headlamp—the Siq is narrow and unlit.
Day 4: Petra, full day.
Enter the site before 6:30am. The Treasury (Al-Khazneh) is the most photographed monument in Jordan; photographing it without crowds requires an early start or a 200mm lens from the approach trail. The early light is soft and the air is cool. By 8am, organised tours arrive and the site becomes congested.
Walk the colonnaded street and the Royal Tombs (one hour). Continue to the Monastery (Al-Deir), which is the second-largest carved structure at Petra and requires 45 minutes of steady uphill walking (800 steps, roughly). The Monastery is visited by fewer than 15 percent of Petra's daily visitors, despite being visually superior to the Treasury. The view from the terrace is worth the exertion.
Descend and explore the back routes: the High Place of Sacrifice, the Temple of the Winged Lions, and the Street of Facades. Petra covers 260 square kilometres; a full day allows for major monuments plus minor sites without rushing. Budget eight to nine hours on site, including breaks. Eat a packed lunch inside the site (no reliable food outlets exist; bring sandwiches and water from Wadi Musa). Exit by 4pm.
Petra by Night (Monday, Wednesday, Thursday; JD 17 additional) involves walking the Siq and Treasury by candlelight. It is atmospheric and undeniably photogenic, but it is not educational and the tour format reduces the experience to a managed crowd experience. Skip it unless you plan a second Petra day and want variety.
Day 5: Little Petra and drive to Wadi Rum.
Spend the morning at Little Petra (Siq al-Barid), a smaller canyon site eight kilometres north of Wadi Musa with fewer carved structures but comparable rock formations. Entrance is JD 3. Spend one to two hours. This is genuinely empty—you may be alone on the trail.
Drive to Wadi Rum in the afternoon (1.5 hours southeast). Wadi Rum is a desert of red sandstone formations, and the experience depends entirely on the quality of the camp you select. Book a camp in advance via email or through a tour operator (Wadi Rum Night Camps, Rahayeb Camp, or similar). A basic Bedouin camp (canvas tent or bubble tent, shared bathroom, simple dinner of zarb—meat cooked under sand—and breakfast) costs JD 35–50 per person including meals. An upgraded camp with private bathrooms and better bedding costs JD 100–150 per person. Unless you prioritise comfort, the basic camps are sufficient and give a more authentic experience. Expect cold nights (temperatures drop to 5–10°C even in May and September).
Day 6: Wadi Rum and drive to the Dead Sea.
Sunrise from the camp is the standard activity; wake at 5:30am and sit outside with coffee. A Jeep tour through the desert (JD 60–80 per vehicle, shared among passengers—typically four to six people) takes four hours and visits the main rock formations, natural arches, and Bedouin settlements. Book the tour through your camp or a local operator the night before. The tour is competent but not revelatory; the value is in the landscape, not the guide.
Drive north to the Dead Sea resorts (2.5 hours) via Aqaba road and the Desert Highway. The Dead Sea is the lowest point on earth (430 metres below sea level) and the water is 34 percent salt—approximately ten times saltier than the ocean. You cannot sink; the buoyancy is involuntary. The experience is genuinely strange: floating horizontal, trying to read a newspaper, the extreme salt burning any cuts or shaved skin. Fifteen minutes is sufficient before the salt becomes uncomfortable. Most resorts offer mud treatments (the therapeutic claims are overstated, but the sensation is novel). Overnight at a mid-range Dead Sea resort (JD 80–120/night; Movenpick or Radisson are the main chains) or drive back to Amman for the final night.
Day 7: Dead Sea morning and depart.
Swim or float in the morning. Shower thoroughly afterward—the salt does not rinse out easily. Drive to Queen Alia International Airport (45 minutes from the Dead Sea resort area via the highway). Depart for Europe.
Transport and Logistics
Rental car: Highly recommended for a one-week trip. Roads between major sites (Amman–Jerash, Amman–Petra, Wadi Rum–Dead Sea) are well-maintained and signposted. Petrol costs JD 0.30 per litre (2026). A compact car burns approximately 6–7 litres per 100km. Budget JD 20 in fuel for the week. International driving permit required for non-EU licenses; check with your insurer before booking. Park at Petra visitor centre is free and secure. Parking at Wadi Rum camps and Dead Sea resorts is straightforward.
Public transport (JETT bus): A reliable public bus connects Amman and Petra (JD 10 each way), departing Amman at 7am and arriving Petra at approximately 12:30pm. Return bus departs Petra at 6:30am. The bus is punctual but inflexible—you cannot extend a day or leave early without losing money. The bus does not serve Wadi Rum or the Dead Sea. Use the bus only if you are confined to the Amman–Petra route.
Private driver: Hire a driver through your hotel or a tour operator for JD 60–100 per day. The driver provides context and handles navigation. This is a good option for those uncomfortable driving in an unfamiliar country or for groups where car rental is expensive per person.
Food and Eating
The national dish is mansaf: lamb cooked with fermented dried yoghurt sauce (jameed) and served over rice with pine nuts. Mansaf is not universally available at tourist restaurants; ask your hotel for recommendations. A proper mansaf costs JD 8–12 and is usually eaten for lunch or special occasions, not dinner.
Hummus, falafel, and flatbread are available everywhere and cost JD 1.50–3 per meal. Shawarma (meat wrap) is JD 2–3. Salad (fattoush or tabbouleh) is JD 3–4. These are your budget staples.
Al-Quds Restaurant in Wadi Musa village serves excellent hummus and mansaf, is frequented by locals, and costs JD 3–5 per person. No tourist pricing. Cash preferred.
Petra Kitchen in Wadi Musa is a hybrid cooking class and restaurant. You prepare three dishes (hummus, main course, dessert) with an instructor, then eat them communally with other guests. Cost is JD 30 per person including all ingredients and drinks. It is worth the time if you want to learn technique rather than simply eat; otherwise, the cost is high relative to local restaurants.
Turkish coffee is JD 0.75–1 and is served in small cups, strong and sweet. Request unsweetened (sada) if you prefer. Mint tea (shai bi na'ana) is everywhere and costs JD 0.50–1.
Alcohol: Beer and wine are available in hotels and some restaurants but are not widely consumed in public. A beer costs JD 3–5 in a bar; wine is more expensive and variable quality. Alcohol is not sold in small shops; only in licensed establishments.
Safety and Practical Matters
Jordan is one of the most stable countries in the Middle East and has one of the lowest crime rates against tourists in the region. Theft and violent crime are extremely rare. Solo female travellers report a high degree of safety, particularly in major sites. The main annoyance is aggressive sales pressure from shopkeepers and guides around Petra and in Wadi Musa village. Decline firmly ("La, shukran"—no, thank you) and move on. Do not negotiate out of politeness.
The border areas (north toward Syria, east toward Iraq) are closed to tourists and are monitored. Do not attempt to cross. Stick to the main sites (Amman, Jerash, Petra, Wadi Rum, Dead Sea) and standard routes.
Medical care is good in Amman and adequate in Wadi Musa. Pharmacies are ubiquitous and many medications available without prescription. Travel insurance is recommended, not essential.
Internet and phone: Local SIM cards (Zain, Orange, Umniah) cost JD 5 and include credit. 4G coverage is reliable on the main highways and in towns. Remote Wadi Rum has spotty 3G; do not rely on GPS navigation there.
Water is safe to drink from taps in hotels and restaurants. Bottled water is cheap (JD 0.50–1 per litre). Tap water in remote areas is potable but unfamiliar stomach bacteria may cause mild issues; stick to bottled water in Wadi Rum.
When to Visit
| Month | Weather | Crowds | Verdict |
|---|---|---|---|
| January | 8–15°C, rain possible | Very low | Good |
| February | 10–16°C, occasional rain | Low | Good |
| March | 15–23°C, wildflowers | Low to moderate | Best |
| April | 20–28°C, warm | Moderate | Best |
| May | 25–33°C, hot | Moderate to high | Best |
| June | 30–37°C, very hot | Moderate | Shoulder |
| July | 32–40°C, extreme heat | Moderate | Avoid |
| August | 31–39°C, extreme heat | Moderate | Avoid |
| September | 27–35°C, cooling | Low | Shoulder |
| October | 22–30°C, pleasant | Low to moderate | Good |
| November | 15–24°C, mild | Low | Good |
| December | 10–18°C, occasional rain | Very low | Good |
March to May: Temperatures range from 20–28°C in Petra. Wildflowers bloom in Wadi Rum. These are the optimal months. Crowds are moderate but not overwhelming. Book accommodation two to three weeks in advance.
September to November: Similar temperature range and fewer tourists than spring. Shoulder season pricing is available. September is still warm (27–35°C) but cooling by month's end. October and November are ideal for hiking and camping.
June to August: Heat is 35–40°C during the day in Petra and Wadi Rum. Still manageable if you wake at 5am and finish major activities by noon. The Dead Sea is hotter. Accommodation is cheaper and less crowded. Bring sunscreen, hat, and extra water.
December to February: Nights in Wadi Rum can drop below freezing. Petra is 8–15°C during the day, cooler at night. Rain is possible, particularly in January and February. Heating in budget accommodation is sometimes inadequate. Tourists are minimal and prices are lowest. This is viable for hardy travellers; avoid if you prioritise comfort.
Budget Breakdown
Budget tier (JD 50–70/day):
- Accommodation: JD 30–40/night (basic guesthouses, shared bathrooms)
- Meals: JD 10–15/day (local restaurants, hummus, falafel, no alcohol)
- Transport: JD 5–10/day (bus or shared taxi, or amortised rental car cost)
- Sites: JD 5–10/day (amortised Jordan Pass or individual entry fees)
- Wadi Rum camp: JD 35–50/person (eats into daily budget significantly; plan accordingly)
Mid-range tier (JD 100–150/day):
- Accommodation: JD 50–80/night (3-star hotels with private bathroom)
- Meals: JD 25–35/day (mix of local and upmarket restaurants, one or two alcoholic drinks)
- Transport: JD 15–20/day (rental car cost or private driver split with travel partner)
- Sites: JD 5–10/day (Jordan Pass amortised)
- Wadi Rum camp: JD 100–150/person (upgraded camp with private bathrooms)
Real-world example (couple, mid-range, 7 days):
- Flight: €200–300 per person (split across trip: negligible daily cost)
- Jordan Pass (two): JD 140 (JD 20/day amortised)
- Rental car: JD 200 (JD 29/day)
- Fuel: JD 20
- Accommodation (5 nights hotel, 1 night camp): JD 350 (JD 50/day)
- Meals: JD 100 (JD 14/day)
- Wadi Rum camp (2 people): JD 100 (JD 14/day)
- Dead Sea resort (1 night): JD 100 (JD 14/day)
- Guides, activities, miscellaneous: JD 50
Total: approximately JD 1,060 (approximately €1,400) per person for the week, or JD 150/day.
A solo traveller on a strict budget (public bus, basic accommodation, no Wadi Rum camp, only major sites) can reduce this to JD 40–50/day. A couple prioritising comfort and private transport can expect JD 150–200/day.
The Wadi Rum overnight inflates the budget significantly (JD 35–150 per person) relative to hotel nights. If budget is the constraint, reduce Wadi Rum to a one-day Jeep tour from the Dead Sea and skip the overnight camp.
Who Should Go and When
Go to Jordan if you want to see major archaeological sites (Roman ruins, Nabataean temples) without the crowds of Egypt or Turkey, or if you want a stable, easy Middle Eastern destination for your first regional trip. The infrastructure is functional, the people are welcoming without pressure, and one week allows you to see the significant sites without rushing.
Go in March, April, or October for ideal weather and reasonable crowds. Go in January or February if you want solitude and low prices, provided you tolerate cold nights and occasional rain. Avoid July and August unless you prioritise empty sites over comfort.
Skip Wadi Rum if your budget is under JD 70/day or if you have limited time—a Jeep tour from Aqaba or the Dead Sea is sufficient. Skip the Dead Sea if your flight departs from Amman; the drive from Wadi Rum is long and the float is a novelty, not a necessity. Skip Petra by Night unless you plan two days at Petra and want variety.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is the Jordan Pass worth buying?
Yes, if you stay three or more nights and visit Petra. Without the pass, a visa costs JD 40 and Petra costs JD 50 (one day) or JD 55 (two days). The pass costs JD 70 and includes both, plus access to 40+ other sites. Buy it online before arrival at jordanpass.jo.
How many days should I spend at Petra?
One full day is sufficient for the main monuments (Treasury, colonnaded street, Royal Tombs, Monastery). Two days allows for exploration of the back routes and less-visited sites. The site is large but the highlights can be covered in six to eight hours of walking. Most visitors spend one day and do not feel they missed anything significant.
Is Wadi Rum camping worth the cost?
Yes, if you want to experience the desert and sleep under stars, and if your budget allows JD 35–150 per person for the night. No, if budget is the constraint or if you have limited time—a one-day Jeep tour from Aqaba or a resort base provides a similar visual experience with less logistical friction. The camps are genuinely isolated and the night sky is unobstructed; this is the appeal.
Is Jordan safe for solo female travellers?
Yes. Jordan has low crime rates against tourists, and women travelling alone report a high degree of safety. The main issue is unsolicited attention and aggressive sales pitches in tourist areas, not violence or theft. Firm politeness ("La, shukran") is an effective deterrent. Dress modestly in towns and conservative areas; shorts and tank tops are acceptable in Amman and at tourist sites but may attract attention in villages.
What is the best month to visit Jordan?
April and October are optimal: temperatures are 20–30°C, crowds are moderate, and rainfall is minimal. May is also excellent but begins to warm. September and November have fewer tourists and similar conditions. Avoid July and August (heat 35–40°C) and mid-winter (Wadi Rum nights below 0°C) unless you have specific constraints.
Can I drive in Jordan without an international driving permit?
EU licenses are recognised directly. Non-EU licenses (US, Canadian, Australian, etc.) require an International Driving Permit, obtainable from your local automobile association before departure. Check with your car rental company and insurer; some US insurers restrict coverage for non-IDP holders in the Middle East.