Kerala occupies a narrow strip of southwestern India — 580km long and averaging 60km wide — wedged between the Western Ghats and the Arabian Sea. It's one of India's most visited states by foreign tourists, and the infrastructure reflects that: Kochi airport is modern, the roads between main towns are maintained, and the backwater houseboat operators have been dealing with international visitors for 30 years. That doesn't make it easy exactly, but it makes it more predictable than many Indian destinations. Kerala also has two separate monsoon seasons, which matters more than most guides acknowledge.
Understanding Kerala's Two Monsoons
Kerala receives rainfall from two distinct systems, and understanding them determines when you should visit. The southwest monsoon arrives from the Arabian Sea around June 1st (the most predictable onset in India) and lasts through August, bringing 200–300mm per month to the coast and double that to the Ghats. A second northeast monsoon hits the northern coast and backwater regions in October–November. Between the two systems, September is often drier than the surrounding months.
The southwest monsoon is actually a reasonable time to visit Kerala — the Ghats are intensely green, prices drop 30–40%, and the crowds thin significantly. The trade-off is that beach swimming is impossible (rough seas, riptides) and some outdoor activities are limited. The backwaters are navigable year-round; Munnar and the hill stations are fine in monsoon provided you're comfortable with mist and rain. The northeast monsoon in October–November is heavier on the Malabar Coast (Kozhikode, Kannur) than in the south.
The Backwaters: Houseboat Reality
Kerala's backwaters — the 900km network of canals, lagoons, and rivers connected to Vembanad Lake — are the state's most marketed feature, and the houseboat experience is simultaneously overpriced in its standard form and genuinely worth doing if you choose correctly. The problem is the main circuit: boats departing from Alleppey (Alappuzha) that follow the same heavily trafficked route, mooring near each other overnight in what becomes a floating parking lot.
The better option is booking a private houseboat through a smaller operator for two nights rather than one, which gets you further into the quieter northern sections of the network. Alternatively, the public ferries that run through the backwaters — the Alleppey–Kottayam route costs around ₹20 and takes 2.5 hours — give you the scenery without the houseboat price tag (₹8,000–20,000 per night depending on boat quality). Punting canoes through village waterways in Kumarakom are another option at a fraction of the cost.
Where to Go in Kerala
Kochi (Cochin) is the main entry point and worth spending two to three days. Fort Kochi, the historic peninsula with Chinese fishing nets, colonial Portuguese and Dutch architecture, and a functioning Jewish quarter, is compact and walkable. The Chinese fishing nets at sunrise are photographed constantly but remain visually striking. Kochi's restaurant scene is strong relative to its size — the best meals are in Fort Kochi and the neighbouring Mattancherry district.
Munnar, 130km east of Kochi in the Western Ghats at 1,600 metres, is the main hill station. The tea estates that cover the hillsides were planted by British companies in the 1870s and 1880s and are still operating. The town itself is functional rather than attractive; the value is in the drives and walks through the plantations and the cooler temperatures (15–25°C versus 30–35°C on the coast). Eravikulam National Park, 15km from town, is the best place to see Nilgiri tahr (a mountain goat endemic to the Ghats) and has good views toward the highest peaks.
Varkala is the most-used beach destination for foreign visitors — cliffs above the beach, a line of guesthouses and restaurants at the top, and steps down to the sand. More compact than Kovalam and less resort-heavy. The beach itself is about 500m long. Kovalam has a larger beach and is more developed with international-standard hotels; better if you want resort facilities, less atmospheric than Varkala.
Thekkady (Periyar Tiger Reserve) is the main wildlife destination — a lake surrounded by forest with boat safaris and trekking options. Tiger sightings are rare; elephant, gaur (Indian bison), and sambar deer sightings on the boat safaris are common.
When to Visit Kerala
December through February is the peak season: dry, 28–32°C on the coast, clear skies, and the most expensive accommodation. March and April are hot (35–38°C) and can feel oppressive on the coast. May is the transition month before monsoon arrives.
For beach and backwaters, November–February is best. For hill stations and greenery, June–September works well despite the rain — Munnar in July is lush beyond description, and the waterfalls around Athirapally are at full strength. September is the most underrated month: the southwest monsoon has eased, prices are still low, and the landscape is at its greenest. For wildlife, March–May is peak season at Periyar as animals come to the lake to drink.
Getting Around Kerala
Kerala has a reasonable rail network connecting Trivandrum (Thiruvananthapuram), Kollam, Alleppey, Kochi, Thrissur, and Kozhikode along the coast. Trains are slow by express standards but reliable and cheap — the Kochi to Trivandrum journey takes 4–5 hours and costs ₹150–400 in second or third class. Booking in advance through IRCTC is advisable for sleeper class.
Between destinations not on the rail line — Munnar, Varkala, Thekkady — buses or hired cars are the options. Buses are cheap (₹100–200 for a 3-hour journey) but slow and crowded. A hired car with driver costs ₹3,000–5,000 per day and is how most foreign visitors navigate between the hill stations and the coast. The roads in the Ghats are winding; the scenery is excellent; the journey time is always longer than the map suggests.
Practical Costs
Kerala is more expensive than most Indian states — wages and cost of living are higher, and the tourist infrastructure prices accordingly. A mid-range homestay or guesthouse runs ₹2,500–5,000 per night (€27–55); houseboat nights start at ₹8,000 for a basic double. A restaurant meal of fish curry and rice at a local place costs ₹200–400; tourist-facing restaurants charge ₹600–1,200. Hiring a driver for a full day runs ₹3,000–5,000 depending on distance. A daily budget of €50–80 per person (accommodation included) is realistic for a comfortable mid-range trip in shoulder season.
